The Presence of Absence (Part IV)

•August 1, 2014 • Leave a Comment

One of the most politically charged works in the workshop was a performative and processual engagement that began before the workshop. One of the artists offered to stamp the currency notes of anyone who volunteered with the words FREE CHINA FREE TIBET, in bold red letters. Inspired by Tibetan activist Tenzin Tsundue’s writing, the slogan questioned the idea that only Tibet was colonised through a control of its territory, economy and culture. Colonisation of the mind, the lack of freedom and omnipresent surveillance and censorship eliminates the freedom of supposedly independent citizens of a country, in this case China. Intended to generate questions and conversations on the notion of freedom and autonomy, the stamped notes resulted in furious debates and anxiety (for the participants of the workshop who had voluntarily got their currency stamped) over factors ranging from the monetary value of the notes being voided due to the presumed illegality of defacing currency, to the possibility of implicating local Tibetans in the act once the money circulated in the market. The slippery question of legality and the potency of currency as one of the primary markers of an independent state were central to the reaction of local Indians, one of whom considered the stamp across a five hundred rupees note as an insult to Gandhi, the ‘father of the nation’. Tibetans, while identifying and supporting the cause of a Free Tibet, were usually resistant to the idea that the people of China too were perhaps victims of autocratic state policies. In the spirit of the nomadic workshop which encourages participants to engage with the specific context of a place, the currency project was the most audacious and precarious. While rooted in complete sympathy with the contemporary condition of Tibetans in Tibet and in exile, it opened up ways to think about nationhood, the desire for it, as well as the apparatus of nations, the relationship between China, Tibet and India in a performative, open-ended way, which while running the risk of legal and political crackdown, forced all the participants- in the workshop as well as the larger community into which the currency notes were introduced and circulated- to examine their own position and politics, sans sentimentality.

During the two-week workshop, there was news filtering in as word of mouth almost every other day of yet another self immolation within Tibet. On the 5th of November 2012, Jamyang Norbu wrote that there had been seventy self immolations in Tibet . Until today, more than a hundred men and women have doused themselves with inflammable liquid, pouring it over every inch of their bodies, knowing that the single spark will turn them into infernos. There are negligible mainstream media reports (barring a few stray articles) in India and abroad about the self-immolations. In March 2012, 27 year old Jamphel Yeshi set himself on fire in Delhi. The image of Yeshi engulfed in flames as he ran through the crowds in Jantar Mantar was replicated in the media, in posters and banners. Ayisha Abraham’s response to this devastating form of protest and resistance was a very personal one. She wrote,

“The immolations in Tibet have been relentless since we arrived.
I stare at them; those small printouts pasted on walls, of charred distorted bodies,
as though Pompei had spewed more volcanic ash.
Caught in agonizing gestures. Frozen angst.
Trophies for unrequited politics. Or freedom.”

On rough sheets of paper that she made in the open field, Ayisha screen printed image after image of Jamphal Yeshi’s running body, engulfed in fire, the paper itself containing traces of the history, landscape and her response to the place where it was made. She also recorded recipes of the local Tibetan food that she was eating, each accompanied by a painted illustration of the dish. These were compiled into a small booklet entitled, ‘Recipes for Comfort’. The banal rituals of the everyday were offered as a counterpoint or a balm as it were; “I must throw that splash of cool blue-cerulean and turquoise, over the page, as though to cool those burning bodies, as though to feel the blue sky caress the hot red of burning timber.”

‘Sacred Heart’, Munkhtsetseg Jalkhaajav (Mugi)’s mixed media work, installed in a room at TIPA, consisted of collage paintings on paper and a Khatag Heart, constructed out of honorific white silk scarves. In McLeodganj, she displayed it suspended over a bowl, the still waters of which bore the reflection of the heart as a lotus, an image drawn from traditional Mongolian medical texts that liken the human heart to a lotus. On her return to Ulaanbaatar, the work continued. ‘Sacred Heart’ was transformed for Mugi into ‘Tibetan Heart’. On reading about the increasing numbers of self immolations, in an tremendously moving performative gesture, she set the fabric heart on fire, against the backdrop of the snow covered mountains in Mongolia. She wrote that in Dharamsala, the work had been connected to water; it was now connected to fire. Inflicting the act of violence upon her work, reducing it to ashes lying on the snow, Mugi felt the work was finally complete.

Karma Sichoe, an exile Tibetan artist living in Dharamsala trained as a traditional tangkha painter. During the workshop, he proposed collective action, albeit through voluntary participation, to clear a part of Dharamsala of rubbish. He chose the kora, the circumambulatory path around the Dalai Lama’s temple; the narrow trail winds through a sun-speckled forest and is used by almost all pilgrims, whether Buddhist or not. The path is littered with the residue of consumption and reverence- scraps of burnt prayer flags, votive objects, photographs, used plastic bottles, ubiquitous multi coloured plastic carry bags and sweet wrappers. Waste, once ‘use’ is vacated from it, is imbued with the idea of pollution. For the artists and the strangers who joined Karma in the act of collecting trash from the kora, turned into a reverential action; the path was cleaned and the sides were white washed, in a symbolic act of re-purification. Karma went through the many sacks of waste and separated bits from which he later created a ‘trash mandala’ in a tangkhas format.

Is it possible to creatively re-imagine ‘Tibet’? The contemporary reimagining of tradition runs the risk of become a formulaic trope, where religious icons are re-garbed as ‘pop’, in visual and material form. Perhaps, innovate creative strategies that have the audacity to imagine a future that is able to transcend the by-now clichéd debate tradition and contemporaneity are required. The Dharamsala workshop over an intense two weeks was an example of how a temporary zone of action can be created. It is in the ephemerality, in the tentativeness of the proposals rather than prescriptive long term ‘solutions’ that the success of the workshop lay. For a community in exile, it may be that effective action lie in temporary tactics, in which place, language and histories can be reclaimed through contemporary strategies.

The Presence of Absence (Part III)

•August 1, 2014 • Leave a Comment

The intersection of time and place, of the past and the present, is nowhere more potent than when individuals and communities have their countries wrenched from them. For Bhuchung, Karma and others in Dharamshala, who cyclically renew their identities as refugees– as those who have lost their ‘there’ and refuse to belong ‘here’, this refusal (and the frequent denial of the state to accord them that belonging), keeps the possibility of Tibet alive. Edward Said describes exile as “a condition of terminal loss, an un-healable rift forced between a human being and a native place, between the self and its true home … [in which] exiles are cut off from their roots, their land, their past …” The exilic condition of loss is intricately bound to the nostalgia for lost territory. Bhuchung’s poem ‘Who Am I?’ attempted to address the question through a series of word-images that bring into sharp relief the contrast between the landscape of Tibet and that of his home-in-exile in a small town in north India.

Who Am I?
Riverbank. Mud house.
My mother’s eyes. My father’s throat.
Garden of willows. Pigeons pregnant.
Dust that flocks the altar
Invading sacred spaces.
Here in the plains there is
No yak dung just empty water bottles
No barley fields only smoking cars
Yellow stars look down on my mother’s sky
Barley has turned into wheat
Cabbages have stolen the fields from round radish
Grandfather’s tsampa bag is flat.

Who am I?
A book. A pen.
Talking about snows of the land
Thinking of the land of snow.
Words deny me the smell of
My mother’s milk. Sheep droppings. Haystacks.
Fats of my heart have left
Barren void. Yellow dream. Numb thought.
The milkman has come – knocking.
‘Five hundred sixty rupees for this month!’
Half circle. Full triangle. New moon.
I’ve lived in too many rented rooms
What I need is a home
A shoe rack fixed to a wall.

Who am I?
A hair of a dog
Struck on barbed wire
A parcel of dried chura
Packed. Sealed. Stamped. Shipped.
A nomad tent pitched low
Like impermanence hanging on the Plateau.
Dead soil. Dread day. Flat peaks.
Smoke dot. Hoof spot. Musket shot.
Some Liberation comes from
Green chillies. Wi-Fi. White walls.
Pine needles. Doormat.

I am Gesar’s warhorse
Living on Milarepa’s nettle-broth
Playing with words that mean and do not mean

The text was screen-printed onto a canvas that was framed by brocade borders mimicking a traditional tangkha . Tangkhas are religious paintings on cloth that are used as meditational devices by monks and are also kept as sacred objects in Buddhist households and temples. The framing of the poem as a tangkha transformed words into icons and the memory of Tibet into a sacred text. For Bhuchung, a practicing Buddhist, the poem is fiercely ‘secular’, meant also as a critical comment on the absence of non-religious cultural expression in the formulation of Tibetanness.

The absence of Tibet was the theme of Kesang Lamdark’s ‘Peep Show’. Lamdark culled images of deities, mythological beings and political figures from iconography textbooks and the internet and traced the outlines of these as perforations hammered into the bottom of beer cans. The cans were glued onto television screens which emitted white noise (known as snow in common parlance). The viewer peeped through the small drinking hole on the top of each can and encountered magical beings brought to life by light. Their reflections, changing colour, swirled inside the cylindrical cans, seemingly emitting heat. Conceptually ‘Peep Show’ referred to the act of voyeurism of viewing visuals that are prohibited in mainstream society; it also referred to the near-complete absence of Tibet and its current political scenario in international media.

For those in exile, that which is absent is usually invoked through nostalgic memorialising. However, absence could also be re-imagined as a gap, an in-between space of immense creative possibilities. Zuleikha Chaudhari’s poetic text spoke of such a place:

A place of /with tension.
A place in perpetual flux motion change
It has/ there is no before or after
There is no question of duration
It contains no traces (of events that have happened)
It contains no objects and it contains no people objects

The present is then a moment and place without a past or a future. It exists as is, to be experienced in the here and now. The idea of such a place emerged from a visit to the museum at the LTWA. The museum houses religious idols, paintings and shrines, the presence of which converts the building of the LTWA into a sacred space that Buddhists circumambulate much in the manner of a temple. In October 2012, the museum under renovation was an empty shell, bearing the potential for endless possibilities. Zuleikha photographed angles, blocks and lines created by light and shadow. A sculptural installation made of metal and light, constructed and installed on site at a welder’s workshop in lower Dharamshala was a meditation on the idea of presence/ absence, inside/ outside that “twisted the space that exists into other shapes” and also Nangdo, a Tibetan word is used to refer to both interior and exterior, to a condition of being inside, at home, and outside- to leave.

The Presence of Absence (part II)

•January 11, 2014 • 1 Comment
Image

Ania Dabrowska, ‘Green’, Seekers (series), 2012

The relationship between historical cultural tradition and contemporary political exigencies was central to Ania Dabrowska’s photographs of Tibetan youth. A man wearing his everyday clothing of jeans with a ‘Tibetan’ shirt and sneakers holding a specially commissioned clay mask and a woman, dressed in a traditional chupa (dress) holding aloft a beacon in a heroic pose were photographed. Both the figures represented Ania’s reading of contemporary Tibetan youth, living in exile in Dharamsala, poised between the traditions of the past and the responsibility of shouldering Tibet’s future. Printed in five colours of Buddhist prayers flags, the photographs were displayed along with a clay mask that Ania conceived of in collaboration with Lobsang Dhoyou a master sculptor and ritual mask-maker.

The colours of Buddhist prayer flags also appeared in Bayar’s installation, in which he painted horses (which are central to Mongolian nomadic life) in his trademark style in the five colours, and framed these paintings on handmade paper in chained tyres that represented the arrested movement of the Buddhist Wheel of Dharma in Tibet.

A humorous take on the question of tradition and prayer flags was the ‘Mickey Prayer Flag’ made by Tsherin Sherpa. Prayer flags with Buddhist prayers and motifs block printed on to squares of cloth in five colours (white, yellow, red, blue and green) are ubiquitous in Himalayan Buddhist landscapes. Tied on strings stretched across the roofs of houses, at the entrances to sacred enclaves and on bridges and high mountain passes, it is believed that the winds carry the prayers inscribed on the flags, spreading the compassionate message of the Buddha. Tsherin composed a prayer flag for contemporary times, where the central icon of the wind-horse or a Buddhist icon was replaced by the grimacing face of Mickey Mouse, printed on fluorescent pink, yellow, purple in addition to the traditional colours. Instead of Buddhist prayers, a new prayer for contemporary times was written on the flags in a special font that has been developed by Tsherin, which at first glance looks like the ornate Tibetan script, but is actually English. The prayer composed by Bhuchung D. Sonam, drew upon the traditional Buddhist precept of taking refuge and the philosophy of nothingness, but the central icons were contemporary popular culture and lifestyle, which were posited in sharp contrast to traditions of the past.

I take refuge in the wireless. Click &Chat

The realisation comes on my screen. In a

sky full of information, I am still an idiot.

I fail to connect the dots. The reality is some

where between beer cans, thick smoke and heavy sleep

We facebook ourselves into numbness

Perception is perfect

My wind horse is a screen saver

Between Mt Fuji and Jomolangma

Burger struggle

Pizza march Tsampa revolution dal chawal

Pay Pray life strife.

Mickey Mouse is to me what Yak was to my grandfather.

It’s cute.

The ghost that I dreamt last night looked like a malformed Ben Ten.

Watching films on giant screens shrinks our thoughts to nothingness.

The Mickey Mouse flags were strung from trees across the Bhagsu Hotel lawns, along balconies at TIPA (Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts) and interspersed with ‘authentic’ prayer flags. Most often mistaken for the ‘real thing’, the visual difference in the colour drew local Tibetans to the flags, most of whom did a double-take when they realised that the script was not Tibetan.

The Presence of Absence (part I)

•January 11, 2014 • Leave a Comment

The Presence of Absence[1]

Absence implies distance between a person, thing and the place or time; this lack of presence, of being here rather than there (or vice versa) extends over a duration of time, whether a moment or a lifetime. In medical parlance, absence refers to ‘an abrupt, transient loss or the impairment of consciousness, which is not subsequently remembered’.

When you are away, you are nevertheless present for me. This presence is multiform: it consists of countless images, passages, meanings, things known, landmarks, yet the whole remains marked by your absence, in that it is diffuse. It is as if your person becomes a place, your contours horizons. I live in you then like living in a country. You are everywhere. Yet in that country I can never meet you face to face.[2]

What of places that are absent; countries and lands that are rendered absent through acts of renaming and the rewriting of histories and presents; when they cease to exist except in the mercurial folds of memories of people who are themselves not present?

McLeodganj, a small town, nestled in the hills of upper Dharamshala in Himachal Pradesh is inextricably linked to absence. In the 1960’s, it became the exile home for thousands of Tibetans who fled the red armies of the newly imposed Communist regime in their own country across the high Himalayas. McLeodganj became the seat of the Tibetan Government in exile, led until very recently by the supreme spiritual head of Buddhist Tibet, the Fourteenth Dalai Lama, whose temple and residence is also located here. In popular imagination, for Indians as well as the throngs of foreigners who visit McLeodganj, the place is identified as ‘Little Tibet’, standing in proxy for an absent Tibet. For thousands of Tibetans (those who came across the border into India and the ones who were born without a country on Indian soil) living in seemingly endless exile in rented rooms, their country, land, community and family were wrenched away from them, leaving a void that they constantly attempt to fill through acts of political resistance and cultural improvisation.

Absence was everywhere in the workshop—the absence of a homeland, the absence of legitimacy, the absence of a people’s struggle in mainstream media. Perhaps not intended as such, the idea of Tibet and its multiple absences became the core question of the Dharamshala International Artists’ Workshop organised jointly by Khoj and White Crane Arts & Media (led by Tenzin Sonam and Ritu Sarin, film makers and activists dedicated to the Tibetan cause). This absence also extended to the apparent invisibility of the plural histories and communities in Dharamshala itself, where the central engagement came to be with the notion of exile. The immediate orientation to the area was via visits to institutions of the Central Tibetan Administration, with introductory talks by officials of the Department of Information and International Relations, the head of the (traditional Tibetan) Medical Museum at the Mentsekhang and the director of the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives. If one were to think of a “place as event”[3], then McLeodganj with the many political, economic and cultural institutions of the government in exile function  in a constant state of rehearsal for a place; a place/ event that is assumed will exist in the future. The absence of a present elsewhere makes the present here possible.

The curated group of artists included Bhuchung  D. Sonam and Karma Sichoe (Tibetans living in exile in Dharamshala), Tsherin Sherpa (of Tibetan origin and American citizenship), Kesang Lamdark ( the son of a high Tibetan Rinpoche, Lamdark grew up and lives in Switzerland and makes frequent visits to visit his father in Tibet), Ania Dabrowska (who describes herself as being in voluntary exile from the grey homogeneity of a Communist Poland), Aradhana Seth (a practicing Buddhist),  Ayisha Abraham (whose practice delves into family archives and  histories) , Tejal Shah (whose art and life is structured around questioning the politics of marginalisation) Erdenebayar Monkhor (Bayar) and Munhtsetseg J (Mugi) (both Buddhists from erstwhile communist Mongolia), and Amanullah Mojadidi (who moved a decade ago to live in Kabul, in the land of his ancestors). I contextualise the participating artists in this manner, as their particular backgrounds as well as political and philosophical leanings led to a synchronicity that shaped the form and outcome of the workshop.

The workshop studio was in the Norbulingka Institute, that trains students in ‘traditional’ art forms- thangka painting, metal work, textile and appliqué work, wood carving and paper making[4]. The official mandate states that the “Norbulingka is dedicated to keeping Tibetan culture and values alive… (and to) handing down tradition and restoring standards by providing training, education and employment for Tibetans. It supports an environment in which Tibetan community and family values can flourish. It reconciles the traditional creatively and respectfully with the modern, and seeks to create an international awareness of Tibetan values and their expression in art and literature.”[5] While most artists chose to work outside of the enclosed studio space, the notion of tradition and contemporaneity, the relationship between the two categories and the place that tradition occupies in the imagining and expression of Tibetanness, became leitmotifs of the workshop.

Tradition occupies centre stage in the lives of exile Tibetan communities for whom the continuation of cultural and religious practices are as much a political and sociological act of self definition and community identity (for the thousands of Tibetans living in exile and as diaspora across the world) as it is an urgent need to preserve a culture that is swiftly being eradicated in Tibet itself. Language, traditional Tibetan cuisine and clothing and most of all Tibetan Buddhism are the cornerstones of a unique Tibetan identity. Dibyesh Anand, following on the work of Anthony Smith, lists the features of an ‘ethnic community’ to include “a collective proper name, a myth of common ancestry, a shared memory of rich ethno-history (especially of a golden age), differentiating elements of a common culture, an association with a specific homeland and, lastly, a sense of solidarity for significant sectors of population.”[6] Toni Huber refers to ‘Nativistic movements’ of the 1940s, in which organised and conscious attempts were made to highlight certain aspects of culture. He writes that this selection is possible only through an awareness that one’s culture is unique. As Huber explains, nativistic movements usually arise in response to situations when a community is endangered due to political and economic suppression.[7]  By the 1980s, representations of Tibetanness emerged, based on carefully selected aspects of indigenous customs, rituals and arts.

-Latika Gupta


[1] Title inspired by Mahmoud Darwish, In the Presence of Absence, transl. Sinan Antoon, New York, 2011

[2] John Berger, “And our faces, my heart, brief as photos”

[3] I am grateful to Zuleikha Chaudhari for many conversations about notions of place as event and the idea of rehearsal.

[4] The studios are located in a building, the floor plan of which is based on the thousand-armed and eleven headed Avalokitesvara, the Bodhisattva of Compassion- patron deity of Buddhists and the deity of which the Dalai Lama is considered an incarnation. The penultimate eleventh head is a Buddhist temple, while the studios form the many arms of the deity.

[5] http://www.norbulingka.org/ Accessed 24 October, 2012

[6] Dibyesh Anand, “(Re)imagining nationalism: Identity and representation in the Tibetan diaspora of South Asia”, Contemporary South Asia, 9:3, 2000, p. 274.

[7] Toni Huber, “Shangri-La in Exile: Representations of Tibetan Identity and Transnational Culture”, in T. Dodin and H. Räther (Ed.), Imagining Tibet: Perceptions, Projections, and Fantasies Boston: Wisdom Publications, 2000, pp. 365-366

‘Take the Absence’

•November 18, 2013 • Leave a Comment

“We won’t take anything with us. Take my bed, my books, and my sleeping pills. Take my absence, all of it. Take my absence from the settee by the door. Take the absence.”[1]

 

Archives and museums are strategies for preserving public histories and increasingly, community memories. However, the museumization impulse contains within it a tragic irony. Lying on the margins of mainstream imagination, traditional societies and cultures are subjected to the violence of being reduced to petrified relics. Museums and archives may also become the repositories of that which needs to be preserved, residues of moments and histories past. How is an archive created for absentia? When communities can no longer access their own histories and indigenous patterns of living, when a place cannot be accessed, objects become traces with which to make an absence present. Aradhana Seth’s installation entitled ‘Documents’ represented just such an archive, one that contained both memories and fantasies of the past, in the present, for the future. She photographed objects- tangkhas, a piece of clothing, a tea cup and protective precious stones that Tibetans, across generations, had carried with them when they fled across the treacherous mountains from their homeland into India. The scant objects they carried with them became relics of a place, its history and all its relationships; mundane things of everyday use were transformed into sacred talismans. The residue, or accumulation that Aradhana attempted to archive was not of the presence of the few objects, but instead of absence; the sanctity of the objects that are present is premised on a loss that cannot be recovered.  She also photographs of metal cupboards which contain the belongings of exile Tibetans; the ubiquitous ‘Godrej’cupboard has come to stand for safety against theft, for safekeeping. The presence of this ‘safe’ becomes a poignant reminder of the all the things that are lost to the exiled. These were tied onto sparse metal frames, along with single words, the names of objects- coral, saddle, sword, money, photographs… each inscribed in calligraphic Tibetan script. The import of the words was accessible only to those who read Tibetan; for others who viewed them, they may have appeared as the exotic script that adorns the facades of shops, institutions, flags and clothing in McLeodganj, at once a reminder of the Tibetan community and of Buddhism in general. Aradhana drew upon her practice as an art director for films to create a mise-en-scene, an interior space in a corridor of TIPA. A Godrej cupboard contained small photographs of the objects, a metal trunk bearing the incredibly poignant question ‘What will you take if you return’ asked the Tibetan refugee community to imagine the moment of return. Responses ranged from a desire to take personal libraries of books to nothing at all, barring the experiences that people contain within them.

 

A similar question was posed by Amanullah Mojadidi who handcrafted a bench with a back-rest made of locally available wood that was then welded onto a fallen concrete beam. Across the back-rest, in the English-Tibetan font created by Tsherin Sherpa, he carved the question ‘Will Tibet Be Free? English is used as it is the language of struggle and of political resistance. The bench is a dialogic work, made as a response to and a reversal of the trendy political proclamation ‘Tibet Will be Free’, emblazoned across t-shirts, tote bags etc. Located on site at the Bhagsu Greens, the site of the workshop’s Open Day as well as a popular community space, it is intended to generate debate, converting what is essentially a proclamation of hope and fantasy into an explosive question rooted in political reality.


[1] Mahmoud Darwish, Memory for Forgetfulness, August, Beirut, 1982

Interview with Karma Sichoe, Huffington Post

•November 18, 2013 • Leave a Comment

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/sophia-slater/karma-sochoe-tibet_b_4159063.html?utm_hp_ref=fb&src=sp&comm_ref=false

“But I’m not a Buddha, not even a bodhisattva. I’m just a simple human being who wants to live freely.”

Notebooks

•April 12, 2013 • Leave a Comment
Recipes for comfort (Ayisha Abraham)

Recipes for Comfort (Ayisha Abraham)

Mountains- Tenzin Lekmon

Mountains- Tenzin Lekmon

Archiving loss- Aradhana Seth

Archiving loss- Aradhana Seth

Tejal Shah

Tejal Shah

Dreaming poems- Bhuchung D Sonam

Dreaming poems- Bhuchung D Sonam

Found Notebook (Karma Sichoe)

Found Diary (Karma Sichoe)

English in Tibetan- Tsherin Sherpa's notebook

English in Tibetan-
Tsherin Sherpa’s notebook (photo: Ania Dabrowska)

At the welder's workshop- Zuleikha Chaudhari

At the welder’s workshop- Zuleikha Chaudhari

Lines, angles, spaces Zuleikha's notebook

Lines, angles, spaces
Zuleikha’s notebook

Texts

•December 10, 2012 • Leave a Comment

The Dharamsala International Artists’ Workshop is going to be included in Khoj’s publication along with the last two workshops in Patna and Srinagar. There are going to be images, an essay and ‘statements’ by all the artists about the work they made during the workshop. Almost all the artists’ statements are far from mundane descriptions about their work and motivations. Instead, poetic and complex texts have been written, some of which I am taking the liberty to share in this post.

***

(photograph: Aradhana Seth)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Documents (Aradhana Seth)

Leaving. Fleeing. Knowing you will come back. Knowing you will never come back. Journeying. Escaping. Mixed emotions.  Many miles. Wondering if it will happen. Will I make it? If I get caught, what shall I say? Safe? I’ll go back and get it. Will I go back and get it? How do I feel knowing that I may never see my home again? That can’t be true.

Let it go. I don’t need it. I need to feed myself, my family. It keeps me safe. Mud transplanted. If I don’t cross I will never cross. Clothes to keep me warm. Generic clothes. Nobody should recognise me.

Everyday things disappeared. Bought. Confiscated. Lost in transition. Sold. Burned.

Some smuggled in. Hidden in clothes. Those that made it are now centerpieces of people’s homes. Carefully locked into a Godrej. Cherished.

Objects as language. Collected. Museumised. Archived. Change in use. An everyday object with a story.  A history added.

What will you take if you go back?

“Knowledge. Nothing. Myself. My books because everything I learned and everything I became came from words of thinkers I never met.”

Will you go back? Is the dream of going back the reality that keeps you going?

Memory & reality. Reality & memory. Merge.

Shifting. What remains? A whole new home is being formed.  Makeshift. Transiting. Transition. Permanent.

***

 

 *****

(Photograph: Tenzin Lekmon)

(Photograph: Tenzin Lekmon)

Place as an Event (Zuleikha Chaudhari)

A place of /with tension.

A place in perpetual flux motion change

It has/ there is no before or after

There is no question of duration

It contains no traces (of events that have happened)

It contains no objects and it contains no people objects

****

 

 

'Recipes for Comfort' (photograph by Tomoyo Ihaya)

‘Recipes for Comfort’ (photograph by Tomoyo Ihaya)

Recipes for Comfort (Ayisha Abraham)

My notebook becomes shredded strips of text,

torn from copious notes written as I stand and stare,

dark lines of dry ink smudged across flawed xerox copies,

uneven edges, folds of crumpled paper like compressed layers of earth,

look over the mountains.

Can paper contain a memory?

Can it contain a memory of a place, of experience, of poetry,

history, of a process of getting to know,

and understand a place within a place?

My arms are in a trough of water

Floating cotton, like bits of cloud

on the rippled surfaces of water

We are in the Open Field

Harvest colours

Paper flapping, like prayer flags

against jagged rock

My notes contain the ideas that flow in and out as thought.

The crude ones that await refinement.

Lists of “to do”..a way of ordering within an unknown world.

The notes become texture, lines and folds and crevices of the earth,

and over this, tracings from photographs taken out of my hotel window

Moon peak, that sits in snow peaked splendour.

They are then overlayed, collaged onto the strips that are hastily glued with stick glue.

These lines demarcate boundaries; traces lines on flat representations.

Maps unmade, drawn and drawn with a kind of detail that defies logic,

except that of territorial control.

The immolations in Tibet have been relentless since we arrived.

I stare at them; those small printouts pasted on walls, of charred distorted bodies,

as though Pompei had spewed more volcanic ash.

Caught in agonizing gestures. Frozen angst.

Trophies for unrequited politics. Or freedom.

Tomoyo ‘s painting’s burn into the pores of handmade paper,

incense sticks to smoulder fibers that weave together many into a whole.

They are counted with each day, numbers compounded,

added to long lists of those already fallen .

As crowds gather every evening to light those floating candles,

waiting for the wax to flow down the hillslope

as tears flow to smudge the ink that stain paper that blots

Each day new names are uttered over the radio or written like syllables in the sand…

into the 70’s (today was 76)

She tells me she needs to cry from within

I must throw that splash of cool blue-cerulean and turquoise, over the page, as though to cool those burning bodies, as though to feel the blue sky caress the hot red of burning timber.

Tying with string one book and another,

like a running stitch from the nimble fingers of my grandmother’s soft hands,

Bright colours in rusted boxes for painting

Recipe’s for Comfort has warm soups and pot cha.

‘Tibetan Heart’ by Munhtsetseg J (Mugi)

•November 30, 2012 • Leave a Comment
'Sacred Heart'made of white silk khatags/ honorific scarves offered as a mark of respect

‘Sacred Heart’
made of white silk khatags/ honorific scarves offered as a mark of respect

Yesterday I got an email from Mugi.

She writes: ” ‘Sacred Heart’- my work , I think it is now complete in Ulaanbaatar “Tibetan-Heart”. I read your writing in the blog about 78 self immolations and after I heard world news about 14 years old Tibetan girl in Dharamshala had self immolation, It shocked me… sad, sad …

And my Khatag Heart , it was connected with water in Dharamsala workshop time, today I wanted to it connect with fire and it is completed…”

'Sacred Heart' suspended over a bowl of water. The heart reflects as a lotus in the still water.(Displayed at TIPA, Dharamsala, Nov. 1, 2012- Open Day Dharamshala International Artists' Workshop)

‘Sacred Heart’ suspended over a bowl of water. The heart reflects as a lotus in the still water.(Displayed at TIPA, Dharamsala, Nov. 1, 2012- Open Day Dharamshala International Artists’ Workshop)

'Tibetan Heart'Ulaanbaatar, Nov. 29, 2012

‘Tibetan Heart’
Ulaanbaatar, Nov. 29, 2012

tibetan heart 2

‘Tibetan Heart’

‘Tibetan Heart’

Tibetan Heart

Tibetan Heart

Tibetan Heart

Tibetan Heart

Tibetan Heart

Tibetan Heart

'Tibetan Heart'

‘Tibetan Heart’

78 today

•November 21, 2012 • Leave a Comment

Over the last couple of weeks, as I have received images and notes from the artists about the ‘work’ they made during the workshop, I find, that so many of us are trying hard to understand the reality of what is happening in Tibet, for Tibetans there and in exile in India and around the world. Drawings, photographs, videos and words appear in my email inbox as traces of the artists’ encounters with what, in its specifics, is essentially another’s experience. For most of us did not speak of the exile conditio of other people, in other terms; it was in empathy with Tibet. Yet, as I write this itself, I recall Aradhana’s film ‘Dam.age’ that we saw excerpts of; I also recall Tejal questioning my only questioning the ‘Tibetans in residence’ about the question of exile. While in Dharamsala, I sometimes wondered, how is it that we make another’s nostalgia our own- in what terms do we, who are not in exile, even begin to  address our attempts to understand this human experience.

Over the next few days, I will post images and notes about the work that emerged from the workshop. More importantly, I will try and share some of the conversations that informed and moulded this work- this sharing will however, always fall short. How can open-ended conversations that took place in fields changing colour under blue skies and in smoke-filled rooms be communicated in type? Even if I do write, and you read, can the typed word communicate Kesang’s seemingly irreverent but profound interventions in the middle of artists’ presentations or over pizzas, punctuated as they were always with his short staccato laugh. That I suppose is where the magic of a workshop lies- walking, eating, drinking, smoking, laughing, arguing, talking, stressing, travelling and living with fourteen other kindred souls. Or was it this workshop- this time, with these individuals, in this place?

More on the Dhasa workshop soon.

The two weeks in Dharamsala were not intended to be centred on the ‘Tibet issue’. But could it have been any other way? From introductions to the government-in-exile offices and institutions such as the Tibet Museum and Library of Tibetan Works and Archive; the fiery yet poignant interaction with Tenzin Tsundue to our (at least my) incessant questions to Karma and Bhuchung who live every day of their lives in exile, to teachings by His Holiness the Dalai Lama…

While the workshop was on, there was news almost every other day of yet another self immolation. Over the last two weeks, this number has gone up drastically and horrifically. On the 5th of November, Jamyang Norbu wrote that there had been 70 self immolations in Tibet. (http://www.jamyangnorbu.com/blog/2012/11/05/make-it-a-burning-issue/)  Until today, at least 78 men and women have doused themselves with inflammable liquid, pouring it over every inch of their bodies, knowing that the single spark will turn them into infernos.

There is negligible mainstream media reports (barring a few stray articles, including a recent piece in the Hindu newspaper a few days ago) in India about the self-immolations that seem to be increasing on a daily basis. The only information is to be found online on the Voice of Tibet radio station website or others such as Phayul and Rangzen Alliance (http://www.rangzen.net). Images from online videos of a nun standing upright as a pillar of fire on a busy street, and of the two cousins who explode into flames have broken my sleep the last few nights. But this is merely sleep.

As I look at Aradhana’s photographs of cherished objects that exile Tibetans carried with them from their homeland, Ayisha’s screen printed silhouettes of self immolation, and look at the lines, angles, shadow and light of Zuleikha’s structure and ideas of place, I leave you with this poem that helped me understand just a little bit more about the hands that light the matches.

I Will Burn Myself Again and Again  by   Sungshik Kyi (Translated by Om Gangthik)

Are my grasslands still green?
Are my blue lakes still crystal clear?
Do my hills and streams still sing their melodious songs?
Great gods of Tibet,
Do you still see them in your vision?

Can all the bloody crimes of the world
Be burned and transformed by the heat of fire;

Who is sucking the blood and marrow from my body?
Who is erasing the bloody images on my chest?
Who dug up and desecrated my father’s grave?
Before my very eyes.
Who cut the life force from my mother’s tongue
How can I accept and tolerate all this?

This body of flesh cannot be lifted by the mind
This pain of the wounded heart cannot be endured anymore

Yesterday, the ancestral land of my dream destroyed by an army of bandits
Today, my precious mother made shamefully naked before my eyes
Tomorrow, my children’s brains and bones savagely scattered about
I cannot submit to this anymore

This inner conviction formed by my discrimination;
This path of life that discovered in my dream;
I wish to burn, thus, without regret.
This magnificent light, like a butter lamp, is ignited by the mind
This whole body, like an “Offering Bowl” desires to be sacrificed without remorse.

Brothers and sisters, old and young, who will live forever in my heart
Gods and Goddess illuminated by the conviction of my love and faith
Also the splendor of the immovable mountains and enduring rivers in my heart
All of you rise higher through my consciousness
All of you live longer through my aspirations

From now on, aim the bullets of the many thousand guns only at me
Inflict all the most painful beatings and tortures only on me
Furthermore, direct all your persecution and tyranny only on me
I offer you the full measure of my life forever
And I assume full responsibility for this commitment

From today, please treasure the custom and heritage of my lineage
Take care the of the purity of my land and environment
Respect the life force of my mother tongue
Give freedom to all my humble brothers and sisters

This is my last testament written with my blood
Because of necessity it is my goal to burn myself forever
So let me accomplish this!
All the ability and power of the divine dwells in love and faith
All the discriminations of humans live in sorrow and happiness
Show your solidarity to my past
Be witness to my present, before my eyes.
Show concern tomorrow for the welfare of my family.

I am walking thus on the path of light, to becoming the living proof of truth
I am sacrificing myself thus on the face of actuality.

All my brothers and sisters, young and old, living in misery and sorrow
All people throughout the world who love freedom and peace
And to you tyrants of violence, oppression and torture.
What I want is lasting peace and freedom
What I am searching for is an existence of equality and caring
Until I accomplish this
I will burn myself again and again.

Making:: Artists at work

•November 14, 2012 • Leave a Comment

Oct.21-23- visits to the Central Tibetan Administration institutions, the Medical Museum, Library of Tibetan Works & Archives and TIPA

•November 13, 2012 • Leave a Comment

31 Oct. Installing work for the Open Day (Bhagsu Greens, TIPA)

•November 10, 2012 • Leave a Comment

Images from the Open Day (II)

•November 7, 2012 • Leave a Comment
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Ania Dabrowska’s work installed at TIPA

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Ania with her collaborator, master mask maker Lobsang Dhoyou

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Ania and Lobsang Dhoyou

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Ayisha Abraham’s book installed at TIPA

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Ayisha’s silkscreen prints on handmade paper (made in the Field) installed at TIPA

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Ayisha’s book- Recipes for Comfort

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Ayisha’s book ‘Karma’s Paints or the Rules for Thangka painting’

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Tejal Shah’s video work installed at TIPA

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Munkhtsetseg Jalkhaajav’s work installed at TIPA

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Bhuchung D Sonam’s text ‘thangka’ at TIPA

 

Some photographs from the Open Day, Nov. 1 (I)

•November 7, 2012 • Leave a Comment
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Clare Harris, Open day talk at the Club House.

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Tenzing Sonam, Ritu Sarin and Pooja Sood

 

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part of zuleikha chaudhari’s work installed at the Bhagsu greens

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Detail from Zuleikha’s images taken at the Museum, LTWA

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visitors attempt to decipher Tsherin Sherpa’s prayer flags

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The images to the left are of a structure that Zuleikha installed at the workshop where it was made, in Sidhpur

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Tsherin and Aradhana sit on Aman Mojididi’s bench

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Tsherin, Bayar, Aradhana, Ania and Tejal

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Zuleikha

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Karma Sichoe’s mandala made of trash that he collected from the kora.

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Mandala- karma sichoe

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detail (mandala)

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found notebook (detail)

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found notebook (detail)

 

Portraits by Ania Dabrowska

•October 29, 2012 • Leave a Comment

Kesang Lamdark
Photographed by Ania Dabrowska

‘Mugi’ (Munkhtsetseg Jalkhaajav )
photographed by Ania Dabrowska

Aman Mojadidi
Photographed by Ania Dabrowska

Kora

•October 25, 2012 • Leave a Comment

Karma insists he is not, cannot be, a Buddhist. Gentle Karma, who makes his student draw the single flower that grows on a tree after all the leaves have fallen. He cannot be a Buddhist and seek refuge in the Buddha. Karma who speaks of lakes that pull butterflies into their waters and of breathing into the outlines of a thangka.

Today he begins to clean the kora.

‘The Open Field’: thinking-working-eating-drinking-conversation place

•October 24, 2012 • Leave a Comment

Norbulingka Institute

•October 24, 2012 • Leave a Comment

“Zen gardens”, Norbulingka Institute

One of the first places we were introduced to on the 20th of October was the Norbulingka Institute, dedicated to “Keeping Tibetan culture and values alive”. The institute has studios that train students in ‘traditional’ art forms- thangka painting, metal work, textile and appliqué work, wood carving and paper making. In fact, Lobsang, an integral part of the artists’ workshop designed and set up a paper pulping machine for making recycled paper. The studios are located in a building, the floor plan of which is based on the thousand-armed and eleven headed Avalokitesvara, the Bodhisattva of Compassion- patron deity of Buddhists and the deity of which the Dalai Lama is considered an incarnation. The penultimate eleventh head is a Buddhist temple, while the studios form the many arms of the deity. The official mandate states that the “ Norbulingka is dedicated to handing down tradition and restoring standards by providing training, education and employment for Tibetans. It supports an environment in which Tibetan community and family values can flourish. It reconciles the traditional creatively and respectfully with the modern, and seeks to create an international awareness of Tibetan values and their expression in art and literature.”(http://www.norbulingka.org/ is the official website of the Norbulingka)

With twelve contemporary artists from around the world setting up studio in the midst of a place built on the premise of nurturing and promoting ‘tradition’ is a very interesting proposition. Unpredictably, conversations have not really dwelled on the idea of tradition thus far.

Conversations

•October 24, 2012 • Leave a Comment

Oct. 21. Ritu and Tenzing invited all the artists to Common Ground Cafe in McLeodganj. The evening was a perfect culmination of the two days of ‘orientation’ and introduction to the places and politics of the region.
“Common Ground is a non-profit organization promoting innovative forums and new media to bridge the communication and information gap between Chinese and Tibetans. By sustaining respectful platforms for exchange, we aim to cultivate common grounds of shared understanding between the two communities, online and on the ground… The cafe is a nonprofit social enterprise that serves not only authentic Taiwanese, Chinese and Tibetan cuisine, but also as a gathering point and events venue for the local community in Dharamsala, northern India.”
You can read more about the Common Ground project here: http://www.commongroundsproject.org

Tenzin reading from Kora, his book of stories and poems

Tenzin Tsundue reading from Kora, his book of stories and poems

Tenzin is a poet, writer and a noted Tibetan freedom activist.

A pdf of the sixth edition of Kora is available at http://www.tibetwrites.org/IMG/pdf/kora.pdf